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Despite the hype Croatia’s pleasures are more timeless than trendy. Along its 1778km coastline a glistening sea winds around rocky coves lapping at pine-fringed beaches. Istrian ports bustle with fishermen while children dive into the sparkling water. In Dalmatia cities throb with nightlife amid ancient Roman ruins.Yachts glide up the coast movie stars discreetly arrange to buy one of Croatia’s 1185 islands and no Mediterranean cruise is complete without a stop in Dubrovnik. The interior landscape is as beguiling even though less visited. Soak in a thermal spa at Istarske Toplice in Istria. Hike through pristine forests watered by mountain streams in the west. Let the waterfalls of Plitvice moisten your face. And then there's the culture.

 

The country that endured Roman Venetian Italian and Austro-Hungarian rule has a unique and slightly schizoid identity. You’ll find a strong central European flavour in the baroque architecture of Zagreb and Italian devotion to the good life percolates up from the coast permeating Croatian food and style. During holidays and festivals the country’s Slavic soul emerges as colourfully costumed dancers whirl about to traditional folk melodies.Croatians retain a strong attachment to the land and traditions that nourished the dream of independence for so long. Even as a tide of speculators and developers wash ashore there is a real commitment to preserving the extraordinary beauty of the coast. Whether the country can hold out against the lure of easy money is an excruciating test of its character. But so far the signs are promising

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When to go - Most people visit Croatia between April and September. Although the coast is too cool for swimming in April, you’ll enjoy warm, clear skies south of Split and rock-bottom accommodation prices. Zagreb is likely to be comfortable and the cultural season is in full swing – depending on your proclivities you can attend the Zagreb Biennial of Contemporary Music or the Queer Zagreb FM Festival. May and June are great months for all outdoor activities (except skiing). In these months, Italian and German tourists have yet to arrive, accommodation prices are still reasonable and you’ll enjoy long, sunny days. But watch out for battalions of school students on class field trips at the end of May and beginning of June; hotels and transport around cultural highlights can suddenly fill up with boisterous youths and their harried chaperones. July and August are the most expensive months to visit Croatia as the tourist season swings into gear. Accommodation prices are highest in summer and popular places can become uncomfortably crowded. The advantages of high-season travel are the extra boat lines to whisk you to the islands and organized excursions to take you to out-of-the-way highlights. September is perhaps the best month to visit since it’s not as hot as summer (though the sea remains warm), the crowds will have thinned out as children return to school, off-season accommodation rates will be in place, and fruit such as figs and grapes will be abundant. In October it may be too cool for camping, but the weather should still be fine along the coast, and private rooms will be plentiful and inexpensive

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